How to Care for Your Suit

A well-made suit, properly cared for, will last fifteen to twenty years and look better at ten than it did at one. But 'properly cared for' does not mean what most people think. The single most damaging thing you can do to a fine wool suit is dry clean it too frequently. The chemicals used in dry cleaning strip natural oils from the fibres, leaving the cloth dry, brittle, and dull. We tell our clients to dry clean a suit no more than once or twice a year, and only when there is a stain that cannot be addressed by other means. For routine freshening, hang the suit in a steamy bathroom for twenty minutes or pass a garment steamer lightly over the fabric. The moisture will release wrinkles and odours without touching the integrity of the cloth.

The most important daily habit is brushing. A natural-bristle clothes brush — horsehair is ideal — removes dust, lint, and surface debris that, if left to accumulate, will work their way into the weave and gradually abrade the fibres. Brush the jacket and trousers after every wearing, using long, downward strokes that follow the nap of the fabric. It takes thirty seconds and it will add years to the life of the garment. We keep a Kent brush at the workshop and recommend the same brand to our clients; their brushes have been handmade in England since 1777 and are as good a companion to a suit as any accessory you will own.

Storage matters more than most people realize. A suit should always be hung on a wide, contoured wooden hanger — never a wire hanger, which will distort the shoulder line, and never a thin plastic one, which does not provide enough support. Cedar hangers are ideal because they absorb moisture and discourage moths. Give each suit enough room in the closet so that it is not pressed against other garments; the fabric needs air circulation to breathe and recover its shape between wearings. For seasonal storage, a breathable cotton garment bag is preferable to a plastic one, which traps moisture and can promote mildew.

Rotate your suits. Wool is a remarkably resilient fibre, but it needs time to recover from the stress of being worn. The general rule is to rest a suit for at least forty-eight hours between wearings — longer if possible. This allows the fibres to spring back to their natural state and any absorbed moisture to evaporate. A man with three suits who rotates them conscientiously will find that each suit lasts longer than a man with six suits who wears the same favourite every other day. Rotation is not just good practice; it is one of the best returns on investment in a bespoke wardrobe.